This early Daniel Roth C147 is a two-register chronograph that features an attractive salmon dial and infrequently seen Clous de Paris pattern. A testament to Roth’s willingness to add a modern touch to his pieces, the watch is an excellent discovery for any collector looking for an unconventional Daniel Roth that retains the watchmaker’s distinctive style.

In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist.

In 1990, a year after Roth started selling his tourbillons through Asprey, he released two subsequent watches, which hinted at the first steps of a coherent collection. These were manually wound chronographs and time-only models. As with his tourbillon, Roth used a Lemania ébauche for his chronograph, the 2320. This placed it alongside other chronographs from the period which used a similar base calibre, such as the Patek Philippe 3970 and chronographs from Roger Dubuis.

The reference C147 is a two-register, manually winding chronograph that has become a ubiquitous part of Daniel Roth’s work. It features many of Roth’s signature design cues, such as the combination of curves and lines of the double-ellipse case, a sharply engine-turned dial, and a rich array of dial configurations.

This particular example bears a rich salmon dial, a testament to the imaginative modern touch that Roth brought to traditional watchmaking methods and styles. The dial also features Clous de Paris-style finishing, which is seen less frequently on Roth’s pieces, as the later pinstripe pattern was more commonly used. The blued hands provide a complementary touch to the dials, while Roth’s name and the number of the watch are displayed on the dial, in accordance with a traditional approach from Breguet and others.

Beyond being one of the finest manual-winding calibers of the time, the use of the Lemania 2320 is especially compelling in Daniel Roth’s case. Indeed, the watchmaker helped develop and refine many of the Lemania calibers, after the movement manufacturer was acquired by Breguet.

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth C147 is in excellent overall condition showing minimal signs of wear. On the bezel and sides of the case there are consistent light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material. On the solid caseback there are light scuffs at the 12 and 6 o’clock position consistent with minimal wear. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs are crisp and well defined. The salmon-coloured dial is free from any signs of imperfections and has been perfectly preserved.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.